Wine Guy: Rambunctious Reds

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The times are feeling antsy. Not quite spring, to be sure, though the sunshine last weekend certainly felt wonderful. Not to mention hopeful. So while there may be no immediate need to break out the shorts and espadrilles, one can’t help but sense that change is coming. It’s the sort of sentiment that could — understandably — lead to the uncorking or unscrewing of a bottle of “rambunctious red.” That is, the sort of red wine that is ready to go with gusto, one that packs a flavor punch yet remains lithe with tension or acidity.

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Lost Peak 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington ($17.99 on sale until March 5, #397913)

Some Cabernet Sauvignon hits heavy and hard, while others come across taut and muscular. Lost Peak occupies a happy middle ground. Hailing from Washington State’s Columbia Valley, this 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon pours dark purple black and wafts intriguing aromas of dark fruit met by flint and cigar. A burst of fruit is subsequently supplemented with cocoa, herbs and a hint of toasty oak. Medium-bodied overall with a firm structure and cherry and coffee grounds to finish, this rambunctious red is just the right side of debonairand ready to pair up with everything from burgers (beef or veg-based) to pot roast.

Bottom line: B, Precious Cab.

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Adega de Penalva 2019 Dao, Portugal ($14.99, #150014)

Portugal is full of rambunctious reds. There’s just something fulsome yet rustic and energetic coming from the wines of this far western, often windswept edge of Iberia, which often feature a full roster of indigenous cultivars. For Adega de Penalva, the grapes involved are Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Jaen, and the result in the glass is full of cherry fruit and sage brush. It’s a bit confected up front but overall presents rich and smooth with earth, grit and lingering spice, and all in all this lively red shows good character and food-pairing sensibilities.

Bottom line: B, High-intensity network.

San Fabiano Calcinaia 2019 Casa Boschino Toscana Rosso, Italy ($17.99 on sale until Feb. 26, #222433)

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Italian reds tend to sing. A generalization, yes, but generally speaking red wines from Italy seem to lean into their acidity and freshness (instead of playing up the richness). Key in this thesis are the red wines of Tuscany, which are largely based on the Sangiovese grape and offer a prime example of rambunctious Italian red. Casa Boschino is a blend of aforementioned Sangiovese plus Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, all sourced from organically grown vineyards. This red brings classic aromas of black cherry and anise in a muscular stance overall that finishes dry with lingering fine tannins and woodsy notes.

Bottom line: B+, Rebellious, rambunctious red.

The Swirl: CRAFT Beer Market Brewmaster’s Dinner

Be on the lookout, as the multiple locations of CRAFT Beer Market are hosting a number of Brewmaster’s Dinners. The latest is Feb. 24’s “Beer Vs. Wine Dinner,” which takes place from 6:30 pm to 9:30 pm at their English Bay location (1795 Beach Ave., Vancouver) and features a four-course dinner paired with complimenting beer and wine pairings from Stanley Park Brewing and Mark Anthony Wines — with guests casting their votes for which pairing reigns supreme. Tickets are $80.59 per person (all inclusive, but minimum table size of two), for complete details head to eventbrite.ca

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