Wines of the week

We forget the rigid rules of agreement. Red on meat and white on fish… What if we like fish and not white wine? Certain red wines can be served very well with fish, and white wines with meats. Here are three very versatile ones that will happily go from fish to meat to vegetables. In any case, taste is far too individual to achieve perfect harmonies for everyone. Forget conventions and treat yourself!

Affordable: aperitif rosé, and more

The Coteaux Varois vineyard is north of Toulon, in a landscape of scrubland, hills and rocky massifs. It is grown at an average altitude of 350 meters. At Château l’Escarelle, the vines are grown organically, surrounded by 1000 hectares of preserved nature. The Rosé is based on Cinsault, Grenache, emblematic grape varieties of Provence rosés, and Syrah, on limestone pebble soils, typical of the appellation. Very pale in color, it opens on a delicate nose, with notes of peach, ladybug and anise, with a floral hint reminiscent of rose and lily of the valley. Dry, fresh and slender on the palate, it is ideal for an aperitif, but also has enough staying power to serve at the table, where it will accompany grilled fish or sausages, a tomato tart, a lobster roll. or shrimp, crab.

Keep: to drink

Château de l’Escarelle Rosé, Coteaux Varois en Provence 2022, $18.70, (14678373), 13%, organic

Consult the SAQ sheet

Discovery: intriguing and unique

If you are looking for a typical and suitable wine, go your way. This one is original and unique. No surprise from Heike and Gernot Heinrich, who work impeccably and produce wines devoid of artifice. Their vineyards are in Burgenland, on either side of Lake Neusiedl. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, with a little Grüner Veltliner and Welschriesling, the Naked White is bottled with its lees; the winemaker also recommends shaking the bottle before serving. Aromatic, complex and intriguing, it offers notes of citrus, citrus peel, herbs, tea. The palate is super tasty, juicy and lively. Dry and light, it is also very fruity with a delicately creamy texture. A slight mineral impression, of smoke, adds interest. Very cool. Try with acras or cod brandade, chicken with green olives, cold meats and antipasti.

Keep: to drink

Heinrich Naked White Weinland 2022, $24.95, (14729337), 12%, organic

Consult the SAQ sheet

Classic: a real delight

Since 2016, Carine Joubert has been the fifth generation to manage the family estate. She follows in the footsteps of her father Marcel, with organic viticulture and winemaking inspired by the work of Jules Chauvet. In the excellent 2022 vintage, the Cuvée à l’Ancienne is a real delight! Very aromatic, its nose is charming, full of small red fruits and floral notes, with a hint of noble vegetal. Despite a moderate alcohol level, the palate gives an impression of richness, as its fruity substance is ample and silky. Everything remains lively with fresh acidity, tension and light tannins which provide relief. Fruit (but not only that), brightness, chewiness, a drinkable character: what more could you ask for? To be enjoyed with steak fries, croque-monsieur, baked fish with tomatoes and herbs.

Keeping: 3 to 4 years

Domaine Joubert Beaujolais Cuvée à l’Ancienne 2022, $22.35, (14222712), 12.5%

Consult the SAQ sheet