Txell Miras (Sabadell, 1976) went from being a promising young man on the poster for the defunct Gaudí catwalk, to later standing out on the Barcelona Catwalk that followed, to later head the incipient 080 that was released in July 2007. Since that time Zero edition in which it was proclaimed “the figurehead” of a whole generation of young Catalan creators has rained a lot, and the designer with a degree in Fine Arts who worked in Milan on Neil Barret’s feminine line before releasing her Own brand in 2004 he claims to have lost more than a couple or three editions of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Week (“because we were in London or because we did a season yes, another no”, he excuses himself). Its 28th edition begins this Monday, October 25, and will last until Thursday, October 28. It is the third in 100% digital version, with 22 designers and brands who will project to the world their proposals in the form of ‘fashion films’ recorded in the spectacular Espai Xavier Corberó in Esplugues de Llobregat. La de Miras, a collection called ‘(A) Simfonia’ in which she experiments with men’s clothing for the first time, is broadcast on ‘streaming‘the first day, from 8.30 p.m.
Do you remember your first 080?
It was the one in Orlando. It was a transparent, spectacular catwalk, full of books.
How has the firm evolved since then?
I have been minimalizing myself, making it more practical, more comfortable & mldr; also for my type of life. When you are young you put a lot of overlays, you think very conceptually & mldr; But when you grow up, you see that you have to wear those clothes all day.
But the pillars of the brand remain the same …
Design and elegance linked to quality. Many times we say that something is elegant because we see that it is well done.
How is the ‘fashion film’ of the collection that you present, in which, in addition, your daughter appears?
Yes, my daughter appears for a moment because I was interested in having the figure of a child appear, but I do not come out, eh. As ‘(A) Simfonia’ is already in stores, and we have more than one piece of the same model, we were interested in the video showing the concept of block and repetition, which is something that is also seen a lot in Espai XC itself, and that same creates a rhythm and a music, and a symphony and a poetry through repetition. Part of the collection was inspired by this space, the gray colors and the shadows of the concrete.
Behind each of your collections there is usually a philosophical reflection, what is it this time?
I play continuity. I do not change the style every season, and the inspiration does not have disparate themes from one collection to another. This one in particular has a lot from last winter [FW 20/21 Post Robot], since with the covid we produced half of the pieces. There were many stores closed, and we reduced the volume. Pieces from then I have recovered with some variety
And for the first time you design for men.
There are six genderless pieces. Last summer we made an experimental trousers, and now I have launched myself with six pieces, a sweatshirt, pleated trousers, a bomber jacket, a wide hooded T-shirt …, and the truth is that it is having a good reception. It is a terrain that I have never touched; I have always dressed women, and at the size level men and women are different. Yes, I am seeing that the unisex, as said before, works in some things, but not in others. So I will have to make exclusively masculine pieces, for the wider shoulders, the long sleeves & mldr; The ‘genderless’ pants can be worn by a type of man, but not all, because it can be small or short.
Is it a thoughtful step or did the clientele ask you for it?
They asked me to make men’s clothing, and I jumped in. It is something that people I know, friends, store customers have asked me for a long time. & Mldr; but for me it is complicated, it is not that simple. There were men who dared and bought pieces of me from the women’s collection, and asked me to be a man. I am happy with the answer. The idea is not to make a whole collection for men, because where I feel most comfortable is women, but it is a stimulating challenge. Also, ‘genderless’ clothing is a general trend. As a concept it is fine, there are no differences, you have to open your mind.
How do you see the new generation of designers?
Okay, here at 080 there is variety. For example, and although it is very different from what I do, I really like Eiko Ai, who makes a very feminine, fragile and light woman. And in man, Eñaut, who was a student of mine at IED, and has exquisite taste.
Who do you miss?
One of those that I liked a lot and I think it is a pity that he does not continue is Josep Font, although he is a style far removed from mine.
How have you resisted the onslaught of the coronavirus?
I closed the shop on calle de València in Barcelona. We have continued with the sale ‘online’ and with clients that I deal directly. Then we did the masks theme, which has been great for us. We have been selling many masks for a year and a half, and that has also helped us to endure. But we have not stopped making productions. We have reduced them, but we have been placing them in many stores. Some of them that had a harder time buying abroad, because they couldn’t go to fairs, they bought from us.
Third edition 100% digital, do you miss the parades?
The walkway is quite dated. For me, digital has been brutal, because I have no limits, they do give you a space, but in this space you have many more possibilities to do different things. Presenting one model after another is very boring and very simple. In the end the catwalk has been very limited. The video began to be made before the pandemic, because the brands that were parading already needed other formats to show their imaginary world. By cons, you do not have the heat of the public. But, why not do face-to-face things like ‘performance’ instead of the traditional catwalk?
Related news
How are you going to follow the ‘streaming’ of the collection?
I will see her with some friends and clients, at someone’s house. Very small committee. We’ll see if for the next 080 things can be done with more people.
Reference-www.elperiodico.com