During the pandemic, the ways we procure food for ourselves have changed dramatically. This period represented for many the opportunity to start different businesses around the ready-to-eat food market. For example, although they already existed before the pandemic, there was an accelerated proliferation of so-called “dark kitchens” or commercial kitchens that sell ready-to-eat food through food platforms. Generally, the location of these kitchens is unknown to the diner, since they do not offer service in the place, not even for the diner who wants to buy to go.
Together with the “dark kitchens”, another type of kitchen has emerged in different cities in the United States, especially in those places with large concentrations of migrants: home-made meals that are delivered through specialized delivery platforms only for entrepreneurs. that they prepare from home.
For many people, this type of entrepreneurship meant not being unemployed during the pandemic, and better yet, being able to prepare food from home to sell to other people. Many migrant culinary specialties are also listed on these platforms, focused on home-cooked food for delivery. One of the pillars on which the marketing of these platforms is based is the “authenticity” of the kitchens, prepared by a directory of chefs to whom even, in the views of the platform, a flag with their country of origin is added. origin or the specialty of its cuisine.
In addition, they give great weight to the recommendations of the users, because in case of having a poor quality meal or that has made the diners sick, it can be immediately banned from the platform. The participating chefs are called “house chefs”, even taking advantage of the concept of homemade as a natural and better quality opposition to what is commercially prepared. This is paradoxical, since it is both homemade and commercial food (the imaginary of homemade food positions it in a better place than “commercial food”).
This type of platform has drawn the attention of trade and health authorities in different cities. Due to the fact that the legislation changes from city to city, it has been very difficult to regulate these kitchens, in terms of health or commercial legality. Users allege, however, that the success or bankruptcy of their business comes from the diners who approve the preparations. In some cities it is prohibited, for example, to prepare ready-to-sell food in home kitchens, while in others the preparation of products at home is allowed, as long as they are only baked.
The apparent “clandestineness” of these kitchens – which they allege also pay taxes because everything is registered through the platform – is a controversial topic. Many users are in favor of continuing because they are an attractive alternative to feed day by day. Within the consumer trends of the pandemic, there is the fact that people are already starting to get tired of cooking – while at the beginning everyone was more motivated to cook. The idea of homemade is always attractive cross-culturally, because in different cultures it is observed that although these qualities are not objectively verified, people assume that homemade food is made with better ingredients, with greater care and respecting recipes of yesteryear; that even has emotional ties.
Food and society columnist
POINT AND HOW
Food and society columnist. Gastronaut, observer and foodie. She is a researcher in sociology of food, nutritionist. She is president and founder of Funalid: Foundation for Food and Development.