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Just before 5am, a rooster crowed, the people camping next to me finally closed it down for the night, and a mess of angry black clouds began to swirl above me in the pink-gray sunrise. It’s time to rise and shine. Rowley’s light show was about to begin. And my boogie down the back roads was nearing its dramatic climax.
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True, when you’re burning rubber on the back roads, which I kind of like, it’s not always an action-packed, edge-of-your-seat adventure. But it’s not supposed to be either. Navigating gravel roads, through one-bar towns, past old elevator rows and crooked barns, past burning canola fields and under bright azure skies dotted with cotton clouds is supposed to be something thoughtful and cerebral. You know, a meditation on the golden glory of the Great Plains. Of course, when you throw in some booze-fueled neighbors and some crazed stormheads, well, a little adrenaline might be on the cards, too.
And I know this: I am not alone in my appreciation of Alberta’s back roads. During these difficult days, it seems that more and more people are drawn to quieter places.
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The pandemic has certainly done its part in terms of driving people down paths less travelled. Social media is also full of faraway scenes where “out there” and “alone” is the dominant, romantic theme. In a few words, freedom of movement and spaces that you can call yours are sought. Especially if those “gaps” are large. real big and has something to offer.
Enter the back roads of Alberta.
The world is your oyster on the back of Alberta 40. There are literally hundreds of trails, hundreds of cool little towns, and billions of things to see and do. A great resource to help you find your way is the Travel Alberta website, www.travelalberta.com. You’ll find dozens of great ideas there. In addition, Alberta is home to more than 100 municipal and community Visitor Information Centers where trained staff can help point you in the right direction. You just have to come and ask!
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From a purely geographic perspective, Alberta has more variety than any other province in the country. Mountains, badlands, rolling prairies, foothills, boreal forests, marshes, river valleys; the list goes on.
While doing some research and having a planned route with a few desired stops along the way can be advantageous, simply pointing your Pinto in some general direction is totally acceptable. Regardless of where you go and where you explore, you are sure to find something tasty.
Personally, I’ve been everywhere, man. Rockyford, Retlaw, Redcliffe, Caroline, Carmangay, Coalhurst, Coaldale, Little Bow, Blackfalds, Bieseker… And that’s just the first verse. (And, yes, a little Johnny Cash to go with you is the right call.)
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But of course I have my favourites.
The southeastern tip of Alberta, for example, in and around the historic Red Coat Trail (this is the approximate route the Mounties took when they marched west to Fort Whoop-Up in 1874), is a pretty untapped corner of our province. that’s ripe for exploring. Some of the highlights include Red Rock Coulee, the Etzikom Windmill Museum, and a few ghost towns hanging by a thread like Skiff (population 10) and Orion (population under 10). There aren’t many services and facilities along the way, so it’s best to plan accordingly.
Other interesting areas where I love to explore are the back roads in and around Vulcan, Cardston, Pincher Creek, Longview, Mossleigh and Sundre. Large wind farms, U-picks and open farms, small-town museums, historic wooden grain elevators, rustic saloons, and beautiful prairie scenes to photograph are just a few of the things you’ll find at these locations.
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But perhaps my favorite place to explore is Drumheller and its surroundings. To me, there seems to be more bang for your buck in this area than anywhere else. It’s got beautiful badlands, cool ghost towns (go Dorothy, Wayne, Sharples, and Rowley), old mine ruins, suspension bridges, colorful fields that twist and turn in every direction, world-class museums, and a plethora of tours. and attractions right on Drumheller. And, if you need a pint of homemade liquid gold to go along with your adventure, Valley Brewing is a great place to celebrate.
Being a fan of ghost towns and old wooden grain elevators, Rowley (located about half an hour north of Drumheller) has always been one of my favorite little towns to explore and photograph. Its authentic heritage value, cool buildings and small-town charm will leave you with lasting memories.
On my last visit, my memories included getting up ridiculously early to photograph all three grain elevators just as I was going through a morning thunderstorm. And, yeah, just to keep my disrespectful neighbors honest, I rolled down my windows and played, a little loud, some Johnny Cash on the way out. What goes around comes around I guess. The song, of course, was I have been everywhere. It’s the perfect tune for your backroad boogie.
Andrew Penner is a local writer and photographer. You can follow him on Instagram at @andrewpennerphotography
