New Brunswick: the province of self-service

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New Brunswick is known as the province of drive-through, which is a shame. But if visitors want to swim in cooler ocean waters and pay more for seafood in those other maritime provinces, let it be.

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With fiery fall foliage and plenty of roadside attractions, fall is a prime time of year to explore this affordable province. Here is a roadmap.

From Moncton, a day’s tour of the Fundy coast is a piece of cake. An hour’s drive south takes you to Cape Enrage, where a picturesque lighthouse has guided ships since 1838. Through mid-October, adrenaline seekers can enjoy spectacular views of the Bay of Fundy via a 600-mile zip line. feet directly to the lighthouse. Alternatively, you can rappel 145 feet down the rugged sandstone cliffs to the beach, where tides rise and fall an average of 33 to 46 feet.

Halfway to Cape Enrage is the m of the province. To better experience this marine wonder, try to time your visit so that you are strolling the seafloor at low tide, before paddling through the rock formations on a kayak tour as the tide rises.

After all that adrenaline rush, slow things down with a wine tasting at Magnetic Hill Winery, a small Moncton vineyard that’s causing a stir. Choose your glass or flight from over 40 wines, making sure to sample their award-winning vintages.

Of course, nothing avoids the effects of crowded hours in a car like a spa break. USVA Spa Nordik features an outdoor pool, sauna, and relaxation chambers to calm frazzled nerves.

From Moncton, it’s a pleasure to travel up the Acadia coast on Highway 11 toward the town of Miramichi. You will regret not stopping along the way and sinking your toes in the Bouctouche dunes, a stretch of golden sand that stretches for 12 kilometers. Keep your eyes peeled for hundreds of shorebirds, who make good use of the sandbar during the fall migration.

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And be sure to stop at Olivier Soapery, an ecomuseum in Sainte-Anne-de-Kent. Here, you’ll learn the history of soap-making as you tour its museum, viewing soap-making demonstrations and a selection of all-natural handmade foam.

For an unforgettable leaf-gazing experience, continue along the Acadia coast to Miscou Island. Its peat bogs turn a brilliant scarlet, ideally viewed from atop the restored 1856 lighthouse.

The city of Miramichi is perhaps best known as a fly fishing destination. More than half of the Atlantic salmon in North America are caught in the Miramichi River, so it’s worth casting your pole until the season closes on October 15.

The mighty Miramichi is a wide, tidal river that is best explored aboard Miramichi River Boat Tours, which runs until mid-October. Hear stories of the river’s past from the Mi’kmaq communities to the French fortification and Acadian refuge, as you navigate neat waterfront homes and Middle Island, once a quarantine station for Irish immigrants who contracted typhus during their journey.

As for where to stay in Miramichi town, you are unlikely to find accommodation with more beautiful views than the Rodd Miramichi River. Go on foot and explore the historic district on trails located next to the hotel along the river.

From the town of Miramichi, it’s a two-hour drive to Fredericton, the provincial capital. Fredericton’s strong military history as a garrison town is evidenced by many remaining British fortifications from the late 18th century. Delve into the past with free daily walking tours available through Thanksgiving. Tours depart from City Hall, where visitors from outside the province can also get free parking passes.

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After discovering the ancient Loyalist terrain, head into the trees for an alternate history. Wabanaki Tree Spirit Tours leads medicinal walks through the ancient city forest in Odell Park. Chemical and cultural interpreter Cecilia Brooks, along with her son Anthony, share their knowledge of Wabanaki’s history and culture as they guide you through parts of the park where medicinal plants and wild foods thrive.

With the heady scent of wood smoke mixed with fresh air, fall is one of the best times of the year to visit Kings Landing, a historic living history museum just outside of Fredericton. The town, with 70 historic houses, can be toured until Thanksgiving.

Flowing through Fredericton is the Wolastoq Saint John River. With 10,000 years of indigenous peoples’ history, plus four centuries of French and English settlements on its banks, it is not surprising that it is cited as a river of Canadian heritage. Explore the historic waterway by renting a kayak, canoe, or SUP from Second Nature Outdoors.

Or you can let your stomach carry you through the riverside capital.

Second Nature Outdoors also offers guided food bike tours, sampling at notable restaurants in the city. If you prefer to feast on your own, Sweet & Salty Grazing’s Deluxe Picnic Baskets are easily delivered to a location of your choice.

Many grand, historic homes line the Fredericton River Valley, and your best chance to snoop into one is to stay at By the River B&B, a Queen Anne-style property with a new spa.

For those who prefer more action, Delta Fredericton vibrates more like a resort than a hotel. With an outdoor pool, plus a sleek new lobby bar and smokehouse, it’s the new local hot spot.

– Jody Robbins