Moisés Nieto: “The message of my clothes is a fight against ‘fast-fashion'”

Moses Nieto (Úbeda; Jaén, 1984) is one of the three debutants of the 28th edition of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Week, but he is not exactly a newcomer to the world of fashion. Despite his youth, he captains his own sustainable brand since 2011, shortly after establishing his workshop in Madrid. He has received numerous distinctions, including the National Fashion Award as New Value, and is already a benchmark for empowering his designs with artisan workshops, for his delicate attention to detail and for a highly refined sense of taste. He is excited to come to Barcelona, ​​”which is the fashion platform that most looks to the future”, but does not forget the past, where he finds his best memory, “the summer of 1990 & rdquor ;, which is the inspiration for the collection that this Wednesday , at 8.30 pm, he presents in the Catalan capital.

What attracts you to this contest?

Above all, the interest in changing scenarios and formats. I have been working on the video since 2018, I find it very interesting and especially how 080 approaches it in the face of the international press. It suits my brand very well. For me the digital issue, video, is the order of the day, and I think it is one more tool to communicate and to sell.

In what other catwalks have you presented your collections?

I have walked in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week since 2012, and also in some international catwalks, in Portugal, in Mexico, in Italy …

Are you betting on the return to presence?

I think the format of the future is a hybrid. When we do a parade it is also recorded on video. It is true that they go hand in hand. We cannot lose sight of the opportunity to see a show live, to almost caress the garment and see it in real movement, but I think it does not work if there is not also a digital medium to reach the entire public. Not everyone has access to a parade, it is restricted to a privileged few. With video, you also reach a much younger audience.

“Not everyone has access to a parade, it is restricted to a privileged few”

Moses Nieto

Designer

Good fabrics, garments that last in the closet, crafts, sustainability … Did I leave something in the inkwell?

No, those are my stamps and what I work for every day. I do not understand a collection without being intervened by some artisan, that does not have some technology in the fabrics, that is not sustainable, that is not made in Spain, and by teams of specialists. My base is that and make timeless garments that do not die with the trend, that have a long journey and that our children and several generations can use.

Don’t you think that timelessness is at odds with the need to make at least two collections per year?

That used to happen before. I propose collections that last in my closet. If you buy a ‘blazer’ of 500 euros you know that you are not going to throw it away next year, because it is an expensive and quality product. The message of my clothes is like a fight against ‘fast-fashion’. I tell the consumer, especially the younger ones, ‘buy less and of quality’. They are the future of fashion, they are the future consumers. With which, if we start to educate them from now on that ‘less is more’, it will come in handy for them and for us.

What are the colors that cannot be missing in your collections?

It varies. I have a certain obsession with blue and red, but, for example, in this collection they are very diluted. This time I bet on ocher, green colors, those of the Earth. It is true that we abuse black a bit, but it is that the color black suits everyone, it is long-suffering and does not go out of style; it is almost mandatory to have black clothes in the closet.

Craftsmanship is not incompatible with technology in his case, which has used 3D and fabric made from recycled plastic bottles.

Yes, we made the dress with a 3D printer in a biodegradable polyester in 2016. Last year we launched a line of ‘denim’ in which the manufacturing process saved 98% of water [Se calcula que se necesitan más de 8.000 litros de agua para producir el algodón necesario para hacer unos vaqueros]. I apply technology to improve artisanal processes. In Spain we are fortunate to still have a lot of craft culture, but technology allows you to choose the tool to accelerate these processes and improve them. I try to find a hybrid between more classic manufactures and intervene with technology, with tools that we have to use yes or yes because we cannot stay as usual.

“It can inspire me from Federico García Lorca to Velázquez or Balenciaga. Plus the Cristóbal Balenciaga from before, not so much the one from now”

Moses Nieto

Designer

What inspires you?

I am going to the area where I feel most comfortable, which are my roots, my family, Andalusia, what surrounds me, what I know & mldr; I always try to talk about Spanish society, how we have evolved & mldr; It can inspire me from Federico García Lorca to Velázquez or Balenciaga. More the Cristóbal Balenciaga from before, not so much the one from now.

What happened that summer of 90 that you have captured in this collection?

As a local from Ube, as a child we were forbidden to go out at certain times so as not to catch a sunstroke, and I was very restless and at siesta time I used to observe and record everything that was around the house. From there I rescue moments, elements that are in the collection: from my grandmother’s crocheted cloths, converted here into skirts, to the beaded curtains in the patio of the house, the plants that are reflected in patterns, pleats, how she dressed my mother at the time & mldr; how Nivea’s pot smelled.

How have you weathered these pandemic months?

Bad for the emotional issue, for everything that has happened. But we have grown in sales. At Christmas there was a very big upturn in sales, we sold a lot of accessories. People were very eager to give away and spend what they had saved. We have a line of accessories that we launched in September, of sneakers, scarves and bags. We devastate. And this winter we are launching blankets and other new accessories. We don’t like to stagnate. We always have our sights on the future.

And how do you see the fashion coming?

It must be sustainable. We have to buy clothes that excite us, that make us feel things, and we really enjoy them.

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Will you do something special to celebrate your presentation in Barcelona?

We do a viewing in Madrid at the Sala Equis, in a cinema. With press, clients, friends and guests.