The successor in the kitchen of this historic restaurant in Camp de l’Arpa brings freshness after passing through a hotel school
I must admit that no matter how faithful I may be to the sites I revere, I don’t always visit them as much as I want. And it hurts me, because it would be much more rewarding to enjoy them more often. Talking about La Cuina del Papi, a -already historic- eating house in Camp de l’Arpa, I had not set foot on it since the end of 2019, in which I remember chaining two visits in a row with great success. So, with the aim of putting an end to this long drought and remembering such pleasant stays, I made an appointment with a friend who used to frequent the place and we set out to meet again there, which was missing.
It is called La Cuina del Papi but its sign still indicates Ca’l Grau, so don’t get lost, because we are in the right (and right) place. We are in the same place as always one of the centers that have made the neighborhood beat for almost four decades (good!) and that “recently” He has seen how he has endured a phenomenon that rarely happens and I celebrate disproportionately every time I find out: the generational change. For this type of change, a term is usually used that scares me more than a box of bombs every time I read it: freshness. But why not, let’s use it properly (or as I would like).
Freshness is what is appreciatedbecause the successor in cooking, who studied at the catering school, and may have been seduced by the siren songs that self-styled haute cuisine often brings with it, preferred to continue with the family business and give breakfasts and lunches in the same way as always but with the hand of someone from school. It sounded good when they told me about it back in the day and, as usual, it sounds even better live.
C/ La Nació, 67. Barcelona
Telephone: 93 435 45 86
Daddy’s Kitchen It has the composition that I like the most in a place of this type and that is more and more difficult to find: a generous bar, in which to spend a long time without problems, whether or not waiting; and a dining room where you can comfortably use a spoon, knife and fork. And share a table, not a tablecloth (because they are individual, as is appropriate in these cases). And enjoy once they kindly plant the bottle of wine and soda (or whatever you want to accompany the agape with) on the table.
Given that, in order to avoid the temptation of asking for rice and offering a bit of variety in these chronicles, the visit was on a Wednesday, I was faced with a historical fear on the part of whoever writes to you, which is none other than a very poor percentage of success in choosing the first plates. And, being in company, it happens to me that the fear multiplies, because I always think that my companion has chosen better than me. Finally, what am I going to do? But one of the things I celebrate about this place is that I’ve had a hard time making mistakes on all the visits I can remember. we ask peas with squid Y lentils, respectively. A joy in both cases (yes, yes, permission, I put a spoon in someone else’s plate, I can’t help it), because the product is rich, it is not scarce and it is well treated. Another Halley’s Comet.
After climbing this first step comfortably, facing the second course is always more bearable. But it wasn’t necessary either, because that stewed veal, which we both diners chose, by itself would have overcome any game with more authority than a Champions League Madrid (sorry, it’s the theme of the week). From a sauce, of which I would have liked to take a can home, through a veal that fell apart just by applying the fork on top and even the fries. In this house they are served long and with skin, fried in such a way that they swim happily in the sauce without danger of disintegrating in it. The hand in the kitchen shows, it is a fact.
I don’t know if I let my guard down because I didn’t care at all at that point in the match, but the rice pudding for dessert, which is not as Asturian as one tends to expect (how much damage has porn done), it was fine and flavorful. Like when you reach the finish line with a big lead, you can allow yourself to slack off a little to rejoice in victory.
Total, to approach this Camp de l’Arpa bastion and invest 12 euros cost of this menu is a highly recommended activity, especially if you take into account that the bar and the dining room are not only beautiful, but those who take care of both are remajo and professional (that not everything in life is flowers for the kitchen).