Italy | Naples or Rome for pizza?

Neapolitans will say that there is no real pizza in Rome. The Romans will retort that the Neapolitan is not cooked. Rivalries aside, as two episodes of Chef’s Table Pizza, both cities have their treasures on paper. Our journalist tasted the iconoclastic creations of Gabriele Bonci, in the Eternal City, those of Franco Pepe, an hour from Naples, then many other pizzas throughout. Ready for the big tour?

Naples

There are several very good pizzas in Naples, but many people will tell you that the best are outside the chaotic capital of Campania. This is why, one Sunday morning, we take the road as a family to Caiazzo. This small village became known thanks to the pizzeria which won a host of awards and was the subject of a 45-minute episode of the series Chef’s Table Pizza.

Once the car is parked, you have to find the restaurant in the maze of small streets… On a rather chilly Sunday in October, it is the only place bustling in the hamlet up high. Divided into several rooms on several levels (including a pretty panoramic terrace), Pepe in grani is always full.

“Is the pizza still this good?” ”, several people asked me. Having never been there before, I can’t say, but it was excellent and, above all, incredibly affordable despite the chef’s superstar status. A “classic” costs between 7 and 9 euros ($10 and $13 CAN), while an “original”, including the famous margherita sbagliata and ritrovata (Vesuvius tomatoes, black olive powder, dried capers, anchovies), costs between 9 and 15 euros ($13 and $22 CAN). The famous starter cones are a must-try, especially the Ciro, with grana padano cheese fondue, arugula pesto and dehydrated local olives.

By booking in advance, you can get a table quite easily.

Visit the Pepe in grani website (in Italian and English)

Rome

Rome has a wide variety of pizza styles. The one we know best in Quebec is al taglio (or in teglia), this sliced ​​pizza that we eat in squares rather than in wedges. The best in the Colosseum city – and maybe even in the world! – is that of Gabriele Bonci.

A larger-than-life character, as “his” episode of Chef’s Table Pizza, he shows great creativity when it comes to garnishes (animals and cockscombs, among others!). He is also the inventor of suppli alla carbonara, this spaghetti croquette that you will want to order as a starter.

You should obviously expect to queue in front of its Pizzarium a few steps from the Vatican. For a slightly shorter wait, just go to the maestro’s second address, Panificio Bonci, less than 15 minutes’ walk away. Here you will also find excellent roast chicken with herbs, bread and pastries, among other things. To the eye, however, the pizza seems better (and fresher) at Pizzarium.

After stopping by Bonci, you may be disappointed by the other al taglio in town. The Roscioli mini-empire could nevertheless be worth the detour (and the long wait), among other things because it is located in a nice, lively neighborhood with nice boutiques. It is at Antico Forno that you can find pizza and bakery products. A few doors away, there is the very popular Roscioli salumeria con Cucina (reservations required, well in advance) and a little further on the Caffè Pasticceria for a strong espresso with a mini-maritozzi, perhaps, if it you still have room for this whipped cream stuffed bun.

Rome’s best-kept culinary secret, however, is tonda romana. It’s a pizza with a cracker-thin crust. There family and I discovered it a little by chance, in Fiumicino, the day before our return flight. If you have a meal to eat in the airport city, you should definitely try Clementina. Luca Pezzetta’s fine “pies” were THE revelation of a two-week trip to the land of pizza! Otherwise, in Rome, it is said that 180 Grammi Pizza romana is also a great place to experience tonda romana.

Visit the Bonci website (in English)

Visit the Roscioli website (in Italian)

Visit Clementina’s website (in Italian)