Durango Restaurant: hamburger and lobster to eat at ease

To top off the confusing and hallucinogenic move, a mechanical horse under a disco ball. I don’t know which ‘diners’ Mani and Majid have gone to or under what circumstances

Mani explains that it was during a trip to the US and with Bob Dylan on speaker (‘Romance in Durango’) where he lit the match of the business, which is added to the celebrated The Fish & Chips Shop and BabyJalevi, the latter, gastronomic memory of the brothers born in Lahore.

Suddenly, Mani asks if I like Dylan and without wanting to attract the wrath of the Dylanians I say yes, although this ‘diner’, ‘diner’ passed through a kaleidoscopesuggests the novels of Barry Gifford, Perdita Durango, Sailor and Lula, deserts, snakes, excesses, no regrets.

The dish referred to in the title of the chronicle is lobster with hamburger and fits into the speech of the excess: the open crustacean, about 300 grams, pressed with butter; next to it, the hamburger, the ‘smash burger’, that old style recovered as newtwo flattened beef discs of 90 grams each.

Up to this point, 480 grams of substance and baroque and theatricality, To which we must add cheeses (old and white cheddar and scamorza), bacon, pickles, the Pa de Kilo roll, the fried and turned potatoes (Galician, sour variety), the salad with apple, carrot and red cabbage and the sauceboat with a bearnaise. And, in case I want more spreads, little jars with mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard…

I understand that the crustacean is frozen (at 25 euros for a luxuriant combined plate), but it needs to be less well done: why not cook it on one side only, with the shell on the griddle and the butter on top so that its presence is noticed?

And yet I like it. I like to mess around, I like that there are wild dishes, I like that in such a predictable city and correct with Barcelona appears this powerful anomaly. “‘Surf and turf’, a sea and mountains,” says Mani. And it is.

The journey into the wild continues with the oyster sandwich, the ‘po’boy’ from Louisiana “with a Mexican touch”, with avocado, green sauce and Caesar mayonnaise (anchovy, Perrins, mustard…). I try a battered oyster separately because once I bite into the whole, the flavor will meld with the other ingredients. And it’s good, how good is the sandwich, which I enjoy in a different way than Burger-Lobster fight, heavy weights.

Mani is thrown natural wines and appears with two bottles of the house Cyclicbrewers who make wine in the Sagrera neighborhood, low alcohol content and impossible names: Swallops and Fulcrums.

As dish of the week, the quesadilla with cochinita pibilcovered with guacamole, in search of a defeat that will only come at the end, with the La Dramerie cheesecakethe workshop of Víctor and Sofía, a good cake that deserves an attentive stomach and not mine, walked through many borders.

The schedule is long, with powerful breakfasts with assorted eggs, and early morning dinners. There are no cocktails at noon, so I’ll settle for a Shakerato coffee, which Jordi prepares with a masterful touch, mezcal and a cold cocktail shaker.

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On the bar there is a saw, which is used to cut the ice blocks and a conspicuous stone pike. flashy? I don’t know why I use the word when I have seen a fair horse, the spirit of Perdita Durango and a lobster from Canada in the establishment of two Pakistani brothers.