Discover the wonder of winter in Quebec

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The air was crisp and snow was falling as my husband and I rode through the frozen forests at Le Baluchon Eco-Resort in Quebec’s Mauricie region. Horseback riding in winter conjures up romantic images, but there are very few places in Canada where you can experience it. In his poem, Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening, Robert Frost described riding a horse through snowy woods on a dark December night. I have always liked his description of wanting to linger in forests that “are beautiful, dark and deep”, but until I rode the snowy trails of Le Baluchon, I had never experienced the thrill of winter riding.

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From late October to mid-April, the province of Quebec turns into a snow-covered adventure park. Skiers and snowboarders head to the slopes in droves, while other adventurers enjoy everything from winter horseback riding to dog sledding, snowmobiling, and survival training.

Like many winter travelers, we began our winter exploration of Quebec at Mont-Tremblant, where we planned to ski the legendary slopes of one of the best ski resorts in North America. Unfortunately, Mother Nature intervened with a heavy ice shower that made the slopes treacherous. We stayed to discover other winter adventures in the Laurentians and the Mauricie region of the province.

Mont-Tremblant for non-skiers

You don’t have to be a skier to enjoy the winter wonderland of Mont-Tremblant. After exploring the picturesque pedestrian-only village, we headed to the nearby Scandinave Mont-Tremblant Spa . Surrounded by the Laurentian Forest, this hydrotherapy experience can be enjoyed in all seasons and in any climate. As the rain continued to fall, we did the circuit: warming up in hot pools and saunas, plunging into cold pools, and then relaxing and repeating the circuit. The heat-cold-relaxation cycle is designed to energize, improve circulation, activate the lymphatic system, and rest the body. The Mont-Tremblant spa is unique, because one of the cold bathing areas is the Diable River (Devil River). After diving into its icy waters, I knew that the river had a good name.

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We spent the day at the spa enjoying lunch in the hotel restaurant, soaking in the pools, and enjoying a massage. Later that night we saw the après ski scene in the pedestrian village, including a delightful stop at La Diable Microbrewery , which was the first microbrewery in Laurentians when it opened in 1995. The restaurant has a good pub food menu and a great selection of craft beer.

I couldn’t resist trying the spruce beer, a craft soda from the menu that is made with spruce tips and has a slight citrus scent.

The drink dates back to the 1500s when the indigenous people taught French explorer Jacques Cartier to boil fir needles to make a tea rich in vitamin C to save his men from scurvy.

A cozy cabin in the woods.

The slopes were still very icy on the second day at Mont-Tremblant, so we headed to Kanatha-Aki Nature Activities Center , 35 minutes drive east of the ski area. We were hoping to go dog sledding, but the freezing rain had also affected the dog sled trails and made them unsafe for dogs. Instead we hiked and went with the owner, Stéhane Denis, to the bison paddock to help feed the forest bison conservation herd. As we rode out to the paddock, the bison crawled through the snow to the feeders and the wild turkeys came out of the forest to see if there was extra food when the bison finished. Seeing bison up close was a special experience. We then visited the sled dogs and met the newest member of the pack, a furry puppy. Kanatha-Aki also offers ice fishing and survival courses, but we decided to do something a little quieter and spent the night in a cozy hunter’s cabin enjoying a candlelit cheese fondue for dinner.

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A luxurious winter adventure at Le Baluchon Eco Resort

By the third day of our trip, the weather was finally cooperating. As fluffy flakes fell, we made the two-hour drive east to Le Baluchon Eco-Resort in the Mauricie region of Quebec. This beautiful luxury resort features winter hiking trails, cross-country ski trails, year-round horseback riding, carriage and sleigh rides, a Nordic spa, and an excellent restaurant.

It is true that I was nervous about riding horses in winter. I’d always wanted to give it a try, but I was worried the horse might slip and that wouldn’t be good for either of us. Those concerns turned out to be unfounded and riding through the woods along the snowy trails was nothing short of magical. When our guide Sabrina asked if we wanted to go faster, I didn’t even have to push my horse into a trot. She loved it and so did I.

We took our time and enjoyed everything the resort has to offer, including several hikes on beautiful trails that led to a frozen waterfall, an old-fashioned windmill, and a historic log cabin. We also enjoyed the spa and restaurants.

When we planned our trip, we thought that skiing at Mont-Tremblant would be the highlight. As it turned out, a ski vacation that went wrong turned into an unforgettable winter adventure. We took a rain test on the Mont-Tremblant ski vacation.

– Debbie Olsen is an award-winning Métis writer and national bestselling author. Follow her on wanderwoman.ca.

Editor’s note: This story came before the new restrictions were put in place in Quebec to slow the spread of COVID-19. Check provincial websites before making future travel plans.