Bill Zacharkiw’s Wines of the Week: July 2, 2022

Each week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his best wine selections available in the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

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Less than $17

Vin de France 2021, Vieilles Vignes, Cazal Viel, Rosé from France, $13.40, SAQ #10510354. I am always looking for little gems in this price category, and this is one. Despite its color, there is a lot of wine here. Aromas of darker fruit notes, dark flowers and a hint of dried herbs, I found it to be surprisingly “big” in the mouth. Not heavy in the least, but quite tasty. The finish has a good focus and freshness. Tasty and interesting, especially considering the price. It works on its own, but will work better with food. Grape varieties: syrah, grenache, cinsault. Residual sugar: 1.2g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: Appetizer, fajitas, grilled pork with fruit sauce.

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$17-$20

Grüner Veltliner 2021, Niederosterreich, Weszeli Felix, Austria white, $19.25, SAQ #13618521. Organic. Excellent grüner here at a very good price. This is the lighter and more subtle side of the grape that I always appreciate. So instead of getting too herbal, it stays in that citrusy zone with lemon and lime, and just a hint of classic hot spice on the finish. It reminds me of a large Vhino Verde with a little tingle of carbon dioxide on the first sip, which dissipates almost immediately. Perfect snack or lunch with salads. Variety of grapes: veltliner grüner. Residual sugar: 2.2g/l. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now. Pairing idea: Appetizer, smoked salmon.

$20-$25

Costières de Nîmes 2019, Cuvée Safranée, Château Grand Escalion, France red, $20.35, SAQ #14836968. This is a big, meaty wine for $20. This southern Rhône outpost can produce some mature wines and this is a classic example. Since the syrah is in the majority here, it shows those warm weather traits of black olive-tinted dark fruit. The Garnachas give you that softness and alcoholic spiciness while the Cariñenas, the tannic structure with that notion of wild meat, liquorice and aromatic herbs. There’s a lot going on here, so not only does it have the stuffing for whatever steak you want to put on the grill, but it’s also pretty interesting. Grape varieties: syrah, grenache, carignan. Residual sugar: 3.2g/l. Serve at 16C. Drink Now-2025. Pairing idea: Grilled beef with mushrooms and roasted beets.

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$25 and up

Bandol Blanc 2021, Domaine la Suffrene, White France, $28.70, SAQ #14862200. If you’re looking to mix things up a bit and try something a little different, there’s no better place to start than this white. I love whites from the south of France, and Bandol produces some of the best. Just like the 2020, it combines nuance and sheer power with every sip. The nose is delicate but complex, with white flowers, apricot, peach and other fruits. The texture is perfect, with a layer of fat wrapped around a mineral and acid core that keeps it fresh. You don’t need to chill it too much, drink at 10-12°C to maximize both aromas and mouthfeel. Grape varieties: clear, ugni blanc. Residual sugar: 1.3g/l. Serve at 8-12C. Drink Now-2026. Pairing idea: Pasta with seafood or mushrooms in a cream sauce.

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