A Breathtaking Visit to the California Redwoods

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The famous naturalist John Muir said, “I go to the woods to lose my mind and find my soul.” His passionate words connected with millions of people in the 19th century, and still ring true today.

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When my husband and I planned our first cruise in three years and realized we had a layover in San Francisco, there was no question where we were headed. We signed up for a shore excursion to Muir Woods, a beautiful redwood forest named for the beloved naturalist who is considered the father of America’s national parks.

Unfortunately the cruise was canceled at the last minute due to a COVID outbreak on board which left us with flights to Los Angeles and no way to get to Muir Woods. If we have gained anything from the pandemic, it is flexibility. And in this case, our alternative plan turned out better than the original.

Our canceled cruise turned into a road trip. Flexible change policies in the face of the pandemic allowed us to change our car rental and return plane tickets to allow us to drive Pacific Coast Highway 1 from Los Angeles to San Francisco and a little further to Muir Woods. This stunning coastal drive is one of the most epic road trips in North America and a trip we intended to take one day. Fortunately for us, one day he arrived early.

Pacific Coast Highway 1 isn’t the fastest way to get from Los Angeles to San Francisco, but it’s definitely the most scenic route. The road skirts the California coast and offers magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean. There are quaint seaside towns, countless roadside stops, and numerous attractions along the way. It could do the 487-mile (784-km) course in about 9 1/2 hours without stopping. We did it in three days.

San Luis Obispo: America’s Happiest Place

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We made San Luis Obispo our first stop. In 2011, The Oprah Winfrey Show declared the city, which was originally founded as a Spanish mission in 1772, the happiest place in America. Oprah fell in love with pedestrian sidewalks, walking and biking trails. We fell in love with the Sunset Drive-In, one of California’s last drive-ins. They even showed retro concession commercials before a double feature of Top Gun and The Lost City.

Hearst Castle

As we drove, we made countless stops at random stops, viewpoints, and attractions. One of the most interesting stops was at Hearst Castle in San Simeon. The opulent castle-like estate was designed by architect Julia Morgan between 1919 and 1947 for media mogul William Randolph Hearst as her primary residence. Many famous people attended parties and gatherings at the mansion and since 1958 it has been part of the Hearst San Simeon State Historic Landmark. We saw a movie about Hearst and his castle and visited a free museum on site.

Elephant Seal Point of View

It’s an eight-minute drive from Hearst Castle to Elephant Seal Vista Point. This place offers impressive views of the Piedras Blancas colony, the only colony of northern elephant seals in the world that is easily accessible, free and open to the public every day of the year.

We pulled into the parking lot and strolled down a trail that offered great views of a sandy beach filled with hundreds of elephant seals. During peak migration periods in January, April and October, there are up to 18,000 seals on the beach. In December and January, large bulls, weighing up to 3,700 kilograms, fight each other to determine dominance and the right to mate with females.

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Clint Eastwood’s town—Carmel-by-the-Sea

We spent our second night in Carmel-by-the-Sea, a quirky town of about 4,000 that elected actor Clint Eastwood as mayor on April 8, 1986. Among other issues, Eastwood campaigned to fight the cone ban. of ice cream in the city. Not surprisingly, he won by a landslide. The town does not have street addresses. It also claims to be one of the most dog-friendly communities in America. We enjoyed exploring the art galleries, shops and restaurants and took a long walk on Carmel Beach, a beautiful dog-friendly white sand beach.

Pigeon Point Light Station State Historic Park

On our third day, we explored the Pigeon Point Light Station, one of the tallest lighthouses in the United States that has been in operation since 1872. At the lighthouse, we met two local fishermen who proudly showed us their catch. From there, we headed to San Francisco and crossed the Golden Gate Bridge, one of the most iconic bridges in the world. When it opened in 1937, it was the longest and highest suspension bridge in the world.

Muir Woods National Monument

On the afternoon of the third day, we finally arrived at Muir Woods National Monument. Declared a national park in 1908, Muir Woods protects 559 acres (226 hectares) of land purchased and donated by William and Elizabeth Kent, who asked that the park be named for John Muir. The redwoods that make up this national park are impressive and I felt a sense of awe walking among them. The average age of the Monument’s redwoods is between 400 and 800 years, and the oldest tree is at least 1,200 years old.

John Muir once wrote: “In every walk in nature, one receives much more than one seeks.” He understood that there is a special kind of peace that only comes from communion with nature, and I felt it while walking among the giant sequoias of Northern California. I can still feel it when I think of them now.

Debbie Olsen is an award-winning Métis writer and national bestselling author. Follow her at www.wanderwoman.ca.