aditi sen, Queen’s University, Ontario https://narrations.ad-auris.com/widget/the-conversation-canada/a-competitive-cooking-show-puts-a-humilde-fermented-rice-dish-on-the-global-stage
It was Kishwar Chowdhury, competitor and runner-up in season 13 of masterchef spain, who made an internationally famous dish called panta bhat. A rather humble dish from eastern India (Assam, Odisha, and West Bengal) and Bangladesh, one could never have imagined it would reach such a level of critical acclaim.
Panta bhat is parboiled cooked rice that is soaked in cold water and allowed to ferment. Very often it is left overnight, although some may even ferment it longer. The rice is then eaten with sides that can vary depending on the economic status of the family or individual, from staples like mustard oil, raw onion, and green chilies to more elaborate sides like fried fish, battered vegetables, and potatoes.
Fermentation in pond water
Ten years ago, panta bhat was associated with various cases of cholera. The dish is a popular breakfast and rural staple in eastern India and Bangladesh, but the use of contaminated water in the preparation of the rice created the perfect conditions for disease development.
Using pond water to make panta bhat had been one of the main causes of the disease. There were several public health campaigns specifically designed to prevent villagers from using the pond water, but they were often ineffective.
Despite its role in causing cholera, the dish’s popularity never waned. It is a cheap food that does not need refrigeration. Also, you can cook the rice in a pot and soak the leftovers in the same pot. Finally, it is not only cheap and convenient, but it also takes very little time to do.
The role of panta bhat is so central in Bengal that there is a popular folk figure called Panta Buri, “old woman who eats panta”, who has many adventures after a thief steals her panta bhat. To seek justice for the theft, he sets out on a long journey to meet the king. On his way, he meets many eclectic characters such as a talking knife, a catfish, a bael (a kind of native fruit), and an alligator. While the characters change in different versions, the context of your trip remains the same.
Panta bhat is a dish that reflects the soul of rural Bengal. However, the dish has now made it to a very popular television show and is fed into the growing interest in fermented foods.
Panta bhat is an acquired taste – the penchant for fermented rice is certainly not as widespread as, say, French fries. Immigrant chefs now push us toward a bolder taste, a taste that is defiant and not overshadowed by the colonial ambivalence of the past.
Acceptance through food.
Increasingly, immigrants are unapologetic about their culinary roots. For example, British-Ghanaian chef Zoe Adjonyoh actively discusses issues such as colonialism and racism that influence how traditional kitchens are perceived and accepted. Nadiya Hussein became popular after winning the 2015 season of The Great British Bake, and it helped popularize unique fusion foods through his writing and a series of television cooking shows.
This interest in ethnic cuisines can also be seen in the growing number of food shows and documentaries such as ugly delicious, High on the pig, Tasty origins and many others who show a growing interest in the subject and a curiosity for authentic culinary storytelling.
We have a long way to go when it comes to embracing versatile tastes from non-Western cultures. In 2019, American national security affairs professor Tom Nichols felt the need to openly disparage Indian food on Twitter.
While it sparked a lot of controversy, Nichols’ tweet exposed the flaws of racism that are so often expressed by disparaging the tastes of immigrants..
But there is hope, and a lot of curiosity. Rather than trying to alter and adjust their cuisine to existing Western standards, young immigrant chefs are learning about their culinary past and little by little trying to integrate their unique flavors into the growing world of global cuisine in very honest and authentic ways. .
Let’s face it, fermented rice with strong mustard oil and hot green chili peppers is like a bold, raw taste of challenge.
aditi sen, Assistant Professor, History, Queen’s University, Ontario
This article is republished from The conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the Original article.
Reference-ygknews.ca