François Lurton obviously has a passion for the dark. This inky black sap from Malbecs and Cots which, by a mirror effect, reflects a luminosity, an aura of freshness that only high-altitude vineyards know how to create. On the one hand, stuck in the poorest soils of the Bodega Piedra Negra, along the banks of the Arroyo Grande river, malbec (Argentine massal selection) and the coast (French cloned selection) with a natural concentration of most important polyphenols and, on the other hand, a foliage which, by sustained photosynthesis, nourishes the plant due to a stupefying luminosity. Add altitudes of more than 1000 meters and a significant day-night thermal amplitude, and here are grape varieties perfectly adapted to local climates and microclimates.
In the light of a recent vertical tasting with the original Bordeaux, I would be inclined to think that these grape varieties found, all at the foot of the Andes cordillera, south of Mendoza – more specifically in the interior of the Geographical Indication (GI) Los Chacayes, in the Uco Valley – that perfect match that makes great wine. It is recognized by the singular expression of its origin, by its inherent complexity as well as by its ability to improve beyond a decade in the bottle. So much so that the prestigious Chacayes cuvée produced at the estate bequeathed its name to the IG. Journalist Matt Kramer, of Wine Spectator, would speak here of a perfect example from somewhereness.
The approach, the vision, the ingenuity, but above all the stubbornness of the Lurtons (his brother Jacques was part of the adventure until 2008) confirm without any doubt the European cultural contribution to the region from 1995 (whereas there were only 10% of houses established at the time), where 100 hectares of vineyard were immediately planted (out of a total of more than 200 ha) in the wake of a trading activity with the Catena house started a few years earlier. An exceptional first vintage on young vines in 2002 followed, before organic certification in 2017.
The consecration of great wine can also be summed up, as everyone knows, in a host of small details, observations and decisions that it would take too long to summarize here. However, it should be noted that Malbec, which is richer in tannins, is sensitive to coulure, that it is more concentrated than the coast, but also less productive, while the latter, less corpulent, is more acidic and more productive. The Malbec will thus be treated in barrel (with rolling to gently extract the tannins), and the side in an amphora to maintain its essential acidity. The following commented vertical attempts to identify the breed of this Argentinian grand cru which has not yet said its last word …
2017 – Dry and warm vintage with harmonious, but also very fine juices, behind an obviously youthful and impenetrable color. Powerful and blooming flavors of ripe black fruit, but also circumscribed by freshness. We would already enjoy it!
2015 – Lots of water and freshness in an early vintage which nevertheless appears more opulent than the 2017. The cots in amphorae retain here a fresher, more aromatic profile which harmonizes everything. Barely gives any ballast though. Long, predictable cellaring.
2008 – 15% cabernet sauvignon here backs up the malbec in a wet vintage, a rustic chouïa in profile, but with malbecs accomplished on the aromatic level. Body, relief, fabric and a taste of mown hay reminiscent of certain bordeaux from the left bank with a hint of evolution.
2007 – This first solo vintage by François Lurton – under the friendly advice of Michel Rolland for this harvest – lets Cabernet Sauvignon shine in its spicy, cedar, but above all very fresh peppermint days. Wide and melted bouquet of once again lively and precise tannins. Much better than many Bordeaux wines in this vintage… and still standing!
2003 – Scorching vintage (the driest in the last 100 years!), Here from young vines, but with small yields to compensate. The result is astounding. The fruit is still very present there, in the flesh, very suggestive and amazing in texture, in a whole at the top of its form.
2002 – A harvest made from fruits 100% harvested on the estate and fermented in concrete vats. A very wet vintage (434 millimeters!) That had to be sorted because of botrytis, currently in decline, but provided with a finesse which testifies to this concern to moderate these excessive extractions which were then current in Argentina in the 1990s.
On September 12, I am tasting a Quebec wine
To grab while there is some left!
Legend
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