Why is Gucci the most coveted fashion brand of the moment?

Since its inception, the century-old Italian firm Gucci, that of the coveted and intertwined double G, has lived on a roller coaster, with resounding successes, dark chapters, bankruptcy and even murder.

The company was founded by Guccio Gucci, a young Florentine who In 1921 he opened a business of leather bags, belts and moccasins. Thanks to the success of his luxury designs and the help of three of his children -Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo-, Guccio He opted for the expansion of the business and soon founded stores in Milan and Rome.

After the end of World War II, the brand set up a branch in New York. In the 50s and 60s, the Hollywood ‘star system’ was already going crazy with Gucci designs, which made the company a symbol of world luxury and his fame spread like wildfire.

However, in the 1980s, the decade of waste and hype, Gucci suffered a major setback caused mainly by family feuds and depersonalized expansion, which led to the firm’s bankruptcy. But the worst was still coming.

When Rodolfo, one of the sons of Guccio, passed away in 1983, his offspring Maurizio took control of the company. He was not long in office: he sold Gucci to Investcorp and shortly after was assassinated on behalf of his own wife.

Firm resurgence

In 1993, the new owners signed a young and unknown Tom Ford, who reinvented the company.

It was precisely the American couturier who restored the brand’s prestige thanks to some designs inspired by the New York of the 70s that had a great reception among the ‘jet set’.

According to the stylist and fashion expert Gilbert Solsona, Ford He was, without a doubt, the great regenerator of the Italian firm. “His first collection, from 1994, went back to the 70s and with exquisite taste managed to get the critics to promote him to the world design podium.” And adds: “Ford It also got Gucci on the lips of the best fashion critics and reached a younger audience. Cleverly, the brand buried its old-fashioned image to become the most desired. “

Golden third age

However, after revitalizing the company, Ford decided to leave the house in 2004, shortly after the group was acquired by the Pinault-Printemps-Redoute conglomerate. With this new change of hands came the third golden age of Gucci from the hand of the Italian designer Frida Giannini, which relieved Ford And in the midst of the financial crisis, he dedicated himself to moderating the provocative image left by his predecessor.

In early 2015, Alessandro Michele, right hand of Giannini since 2002, he became the new creative director of Gucci.

With its fusion of ‘vintage’, disco, Baroque style, street sensibility and blurring of genres, and supported by young leaders, the Roman designer broke records and positioned Gucci in third place in the ‘ranking’ of luxury brands worldwide.

In addition to innovating and seducing an army of ‘celebrities’ such as Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Madonna, Dakota Johnson y Harry Stiles, Michele He has provided new codes with an insurrectionary sophistication in which there is no shortage of animal drawings, cartographies and graffiti.

Núria Mora, fashion consultant and president of Moda Fad, says: “Within the continuous innovations that Gucci and its creative director Alessandro Michele they have us used to it, I would highlight the collaborations both in the world of music and in that of fashion itself, where it dares in fields as far away from the firm as mountaineering and sports – just look at its collaboration with The North Face-, and even cartoons – there are his designs with the character Doraemon to celebrate the Chinese New Year and the limited edition of Donald Duck- “.

It must considers that one of its most popular actions “was the presentation of the Aria collection with pieces made with large logos in collaboration with Balenciaga, where its logo appears in large size, something truly unprecedented and disruptive”.

Luxury brand with urban music

The talent of Michele, Together with its marketing and design teams, it has turned the brand into an icon beyond fashion. Rap, trap and reggaeton stars like Rosalía, J. Balvin, Bad Bunny, Drake, Bad Gyal, Travis Scott, C.Tangana y Yung Beef, among others, they are faithful to their designs.

And it is that for many, Gucci is a sign of success and wealth. Rapper Lil Pump he sings in his song ‘Gucci Gang’: “I get out of my car just to pose in my Gucci robe” and “My daughter is dressed in Gucci and she’s just a girl / she can barely talk but she knows her dad moves money.”

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Pilar Pasamontes, fashion historian and scientific director of Moda IED Barcelona, ​​believes that “all the ugliness and marquism in which firms like Gucci are submerged, is partly due to the economic power and, above all, that of social networks, has marked a before and after in aesthetics. Some of the big brands have visualized that what they all called ‘tacky, polygon and nouveau riche Asians’ have taken command and changed the strategy. From the world of rap and reggaeton They’ve taught a lesson in what it’s like to be in control of the trends. As long as spending a lot of money is the norm – they’ll be right. I’m just hoping this changes. By the way, Rosalía He has already cut his nails, “he concludes.


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