The small world of fashion is in turmoil. Fashion shows, with the public and flashes of photographers, in Paris? Well yes ! After several seasons punctuated by the pandemic, the ban on travel, meeting in closed places and the implementation of digital strategies by brands, Paris fashion week is resuming its habits in the wake of New York, London and Milan, from September 27 to October 5, with 80 physical events and 17 video presentations – mostly Asian labels, prevented from coming.
American and European editors and buyers are back in the fashion capital of the world. In a joyful atmosphere, marked from the first days by the omnipresence of color, majestically on the catwalks of this spring-summer 2022.
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the work of Marc Bohan, a couturier who worked for Christian Dior from 1957 to 1989. We owe her, among other things, the Slim Look, a freer, more flexible silhouette, which helped to free the body. of the woman. Added to this is a look on the solar Italy of the 1960s, through the advent of discotheques, of which the Piper Club in Rome was one of the flagship addresses. “I wanted a collection that was in a cheerful mood, fashion has to be a game, and it’s important to talk about it, especially after the period has passed. We rarely talk about the joyful role of fashion. This collection revolves around the 1960s, a period when fashion served to express one’s personality ”, details the designer.
In a colorful sixties nightclub setting, staged by Anna Paparatti, a figure of the Roman art scene of the 1960s, bright and frank colors follow one another on the podium. In orange, an A-line miniskirt accompanied by a short buttoned jacket; in yellow, a short coat with a wise collar; in green, a minidress with prints mixing stripes and lasciviously elongated tigers; in pink, a long skirt adorned with plant patterns… Accessories also play with color: pink, orange or green mini bowling bag, sandals with fluorescent yellow laces, short bright orange ankle boots. The allure is nostalgic but clearly refreshing.
“Pop corn” and floral prints
Marine Serre has also introduced lightness into her usually more radical universe, through a film featuring a community of people sharing daily tasks. “ I am a little less apocalyptic since the Covid crisis, because I have the impression that there has been an awareness of the state of the world, and therefore I am looking for solutions. In this film, I wanted to show the importance of our actions, even quite simple ones, such as cooking or eating ”, she explains.
Always shaped by its upcycling technique – recovering stocks of fabrics to cut and assemble your clothes – her collection, called “Fichu pour Fichu”, consists of pieces in faded pink denim, dresses in a “popcorn” material creating bubbles and featuring pink, red or yellow floral prints, printed silk scarves, resized to make a supple jacket or pants, kitchen towels with recognizable red edges brought to life in a shirt or a long coat… 45% of the fabrics used for this collection are upcycled and 45% are made from recycled materials.
It is a happy Anthony Vaccarello that we find a few hours before his parade for Saint Laurent. After withdrawing from the official parade calendar in 2020, he is back with a collection in tribute to the bond between Yves Saint Laurent and Paloma Picasso. “ She is a person who is somewhat forgotten in the history of Saint Laurent when she was very important. She freed him from the classic, very formal and bourgeois couture side that he could have had before his collection of 1971. Paloma, dressed in vintage flea flea, with napkin rings as bracelets, gave him a shock. It made her want to not only fashion, but create style. I found it interesting to start with this inspiring character for this season.. ”
This translates into men’s jackets with accentuated shoulders mixed with tight pants and flashy bracelets, body-shaping combinations with red or pink floral prints, very distinct colors – red, purple, blue – over draped strapless jumpsuits. or fatal dresses with dizzying necklines. A wardrobe as glamorous as possible, with a very cinematic aura.
Kenneth Ize, defender of Nigerian craftsmanship, opened the week for him with beautiful, loose sets in bright asoke fabric, streaked with red, sky blue, indigo and green, or tiled with fuchsia and pale pink. Worn with matching sandals, his work is enriched this season with fun exercises (assemblies of spicy shades, pants so high waisted that they go up to the chest …) and fringes that run on the large bags worn on the chest. shoulder or cream dresses with thin straps.
At Ottolinger’s, the sharp colors shake the shabby mansion on rue de l’Université, where the show is being held, the public seated on benches covered with salmon latex tarpaulins. Bright orange in a deconstructed jumpsuit, neon pink for an elongated baguette-sized resin bag, magenta for the usual tight-fitting leggings and dresses, up to iridescent silver tones in apotheosis. Everything dresses Martian women as escaped from the apocalypse but endowed with a conquering libido.
At the Shangri-La hotel, more modern girls stroll slowly through the golden lounges, dressed in Koché’s half-sportswear, half-big-night collection. ” After the pandemic, I wanted to go back to craftsmanship, to a couture spirit, with handmade embroidery, organza flowers. “, explains Christelle Kocher. The designer signs, in all shades of the rainbow, the portrait of a double-sided woman. She puts on dresses in sequins or embellished with crystals, pumps with feathers, leggings and monogrammed canvas coat to seduce after dark (helped by a collaboration indicated with Tinder). And swap it all, as soon as you get back to your room, for crested jogging bottoms, feathered slippers and a satin nightie.
Particularly present during the first two days of fashion week, pink is the subject of multiple interpretations. It is tangy, spicy fuchsia, at Victoria / Tomas. In the courtyard of La Caserne, a new Parisian venue dedicated to young creation, the duo, known for their fully reversible pieces, had a monumental work of this color, swollen with bulbs, installed by the artist Cyril Lancelin. Around, the models wear the pink jacket, a flamingo in trinket in their hands. There are fluorescent green psyche tops, orange-lemon fringed sets, a trench coat wrapped in fir muslin, marshmallow heels.
Conversely, it is a pale pink, that of the leaves of cherry trees fallen from the tree, that Mame Kurogouchi favors in a hazy video. ” I wanted to immerse myself in the memories of the springs of my childhood in Nagano “, says designer Maiko Kurogouchi. She does it in pastel shades, ” all smooth, like a happy reminiscence “, with its customary delicacy and its know-how: voluminous jacket with shiny reflections in polyester and nylon jacquard, delicate pleats, lilac floral dresses, crochet bags covered with tiny pearls in the morning dew. Luxury, calm and voluptuousness.
Diving into the past for Thebe Magugu too. The South African brought out family photos and had fun reinterpreting twenty clothes from the past. ” I wanted optimism this season and, for me, finding comfort always means turning to my family. “, smiles the twenty-something. A wise pantsuit with a white shirt, a scarlet jumpsuit with a slit on the leg, a pleated green dress with a scarf print… The colors are similar to those of the models in the photos. ” Summoning and rediscovering the shapes and colors of childhood is an experience that made me feel good. ” To the viewer too.