MILAN –
For the fourth and final day of Monday of Milan Fashion Week, the previews of menswear for the upcoming spring and summer, the designers seemed to have got the job done.
The looks seemed more appropriate for the weather than for the weekend, as the high temperatures reminded us that dressing in hot weather can mean being covered, but in a relaxed way that suits elegance and playfulness.
Highlights of Monday’s programs:
GIORGIO ARMANI DEFENDS ELEGANCE
Against the onslaught of streetwear and casual clothing, Giorgio Armani defends elegance in all seasons.
The 87-year-old designer’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection mixes the classics with more unusual iterations, as the fashion world demands. Offering elegance is increasingly a lonely job.
“I don’t know when we will feel the loss of the man who moves through life with this refinement,” the designer said after the show.
For his main line, Armani focused on casual and relaxed suits, for day or night. There was movement in the loose pants and jackets, but also in the repeated graphic prints that create the effect of waves. Printed looks are insistently modern.
“It is true that it is nice to see a man well dressed in a suit. But it’s also nice to see the evolution of fashion. Bring the basics, I’ve always done them in my life. market) demands novelty,” Armani said.
On that front, Armani created long tunic tops. Jackets and shirts have a shine that is rarely seen in men’s fashion. A well-knotted foulard replaces a shirt under an open jacket. A scarf creates a sweeping effect on a white suit.
The color palette was based on the combination of navy white and navy blue, melting into bright shades of blue and gray before exploding into combinations of purple, pink and seafoam green.
The shoe of the season is an unassuming espadrille, which replaces the sneaker of recent seasons, and which Armani himself wore with a wry laugh. The caps were brimless, all the better to show the face.
“Acceptable. Believable. More confident,” Armani said, summarizing the collection.
GUCCI PRESENTS THE HAHAHA COLLECTION
Alessandro Michele has teamed up with Harry Styles for a midseason collection that infuses tailoring with teenage freedom. The collection is titled “HaHaHa”, tapping into a sense of joy and also the expression of his initials: Harry and Alessandro.
“In truth, it was easier for him to play with me to create clothes than for me to sing with him,” Michele joked with reporters at a collection preview inside a Milan vintage store.
Harry Styles was embarking on his solo career when Michele stormed the fashion world by proposing what was a new era of gender-fluid attire, looks that immediately appealed to Styles. Michele said the singer incorporated one of his debut pieces as creative director of Gucci into his wardrobe when he was leaving “One Direction.”
The relationship has grown over the years and takes flight in frequent exchanges of fashion inspiration through WhatsApp.
“Sometimes WhatsApp becomes a mood board,” Michele said. Though two decades apart, the two have found common ground in fashion: Michele says Styles restored a kind of teenage glee, while Styles has matured into more tailored looks. Dual influences are present in the new collection.
The pair created a series of adorable block prints against gingham, featuring the collection’s mascot, a grumpy teddy bear, as well as a chewing squirrel and a sheep and cherry combo. Gucci designs bespoke suit jackets from the prints and paired them with colorful wide-leg pants or distressed jeans. The prints are repeated in pajamas, while the patches inject fantasy in knitwear or on a ribbed white tank top. Accessories include an updated Jackie Bag covered in grommets.
Mixed up on vintage store shelves, the Gucci HaHaHa collection was often hard to tell apart from stock.
“It’s a huge compliment to me that it gets confused with vintage,” said Michele. “Vintage means well done.”
JOEONE PERFECTS SUMMER PANTS
French designer Louis-Gabriele Nouchi got the hang of dressing for hot weather, creating easy-to-wear yet distinctive summer looks for Chinese brand Joeone built around pants.
Nouchi’s designs combined chino drapes with walking sweatpants, which included piping and secret utility pockets.
A print of the Chinese landscape “A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains” by Wang Ximeng, with bold strokes of blue, green and ochre, created the theme of the season. The details of the painting appeared as a graphic print on a pair of baggy pants, but also in more subtle patterns printed on jeans.
Shirtless models strolled through the sunny courtyard of Milan’s Sforzesco Castle, bare-chested showing how pants rested perfectly at the waist.
“You have to wear the clothes to see the comfort. Pants are the hardest piece to make in a men’s wardrobe, to be honest,” Nouchi said. “They have to be functional, they have to be comfortable. They really give you the tone of the silhouette, I feel, more than the jacket.”
ZEGNA GOES BACK TO BASICS
Zegna invited fashion people to a sunset show on top of its factory in the Piedmont region, overlooking a vast natural park owned by the Zegna family and underlining the tight control of the supply chain in the family business.
The collection was imbued with lightness, in form and in materials.
Shapes were essential, bordering on minimalism, from track suits with pants or shorts to tunics with artful twists or intarsia knitwear reminiscent of Impressionist landscapes. The finest knitwear was almost sheer, with hints of sheen that caught slants of light. Bags include macrame crossover body bags.
The palette of tobacco, maroon, coffee with light blue and dusty pink colors connects with the earth.
Zegna is moving towards a more sustainable use of materials, deploying fabric scraps and recycled materials, while maintaining tight control of its own supply chain from animal to fiber to garment, and investing in new manufacturing processes. sustainable production.
To that end, Zegna has committed to planting 10,000 new trees in any city where it opens a new store starting in 2023.
Reference-www.ctvnews.ca