Connecting with Argentine culture via peddle power

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A waiter shouted from the door of a restaurant in the heart of Cafayate’s plaza, promising a delicious meal. Easily persuaded, we followed him, carefully stepping over the sleeping stray dog ​​at the top of the stairs. Our table was next to a solo artist who had the entire restaurant singing along with him. Wine was rushed to our table and that dog came in to say hello. Suddenly, two people are dancing Zamba, eyes staring, twirling scarves over their heads as they sensually circle each other. It was going to be another long night in Argentina. But wait. Did I mention this was day six of a two-week bike trip through northwest Argentina?

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COVID was on the decline, airports were opening up, and it was the perfect time to pack your bags and hit the road. Some friends had recommended a boutique cycling company called ConnecTour. So here we were, my husband and I along with a group of sisters, aunts, and nieces from Longview, Alberta, heading for what turned out to be 300 miles with our eyes wide open.

“There’s no rush to the finish line,” says Rick McFerrin, ConnecTour owner and guide. “It’s about connecting with people while enjoying food, wine and beautiful scenery.”

He has been offering this tour for 20 years, cultivating a network of friends, accommodations, restaurants, and side tours that showcase the best of Argentina.

We start in the city of Salta and spend the first hour winding through busy streets. Other than that, it was a wide open pavement with few people. As motorists passed by, they waved, cheered and honked their horns. It was more than just us wanting things to go back to normal.

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ConnecTour supplied the bikes, panniers and two guides; we carry our own equipment and repair kits. A “sunken car” would not do the job or pick up the strays, substantially reducing the cost of the trip. While lunch was a roadside picnic, dinners were rich with a variety of meats drenched in chimichurri sauce, slow-roasted on the asado, and plenty of spectacular Argentine red wine.

Traveling Highway 68 through the Quebrada de las Conchas was the highlight for me. A self-respecting rock geek, I was amazed at the stratigraphy, outcrops, and faults pushing mineral-rich layers skyward. Of course, tourism creates clever names to attract tour buses. Photos are taken at the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), El Sapo (the frog), and the Obelisk (a large hoodoo). The unadulterated natural beauty of the huge valley caused by the shifting of the continental plates millions of years ago was breathtaking.

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La Quebrada was a rough ride, so resting in Cafayate to watch the folk dance was welcome. In a few days, we would be going up. And up, and up to the Paso del Infiernillo. Fortunately, McFerrin designed the route with rest days to see indigenous ruins, visit friends and learn about the culture. Along the way we would see wild donkeys, flocks of noisy green parrots, turkey vultures, foxes and happier dogs.

When the day planner listed 30km with about 600m elevation gain in the last half, we had to pace ourselves. Without mincing words, McFerrin set us up for the day, reminding us to enjoy the setting. No one would be left behind. He appreciated a break at the Museo Pachamama in Amaicha del Valle to admire the indigenous history and geology. The last five kilometers on gravel with hidden thorns that burst the tires were tough. But the wine at the end of the day washed everything away.

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Another morning spent climbing had us cheering and taking selfies with llamas at Paso Infiernillo. At more than 3,000 meters (10,000 feet) above sea level, we were happy to start sailing towards Tafí de Valle in the province of Tucumán.

The last day was the longest with 116 kilometers to Yerba Buena. In the first 50 kilometers we go down 1,600 meters. Leaving the high-altitude farming community, the road sped through alpine deserts, dense rainforests, lush forests, and finally into the valley where trucks spilling lemons from their cargo passed us. The hairpin turns, countless switchbacks, and long stretches of newly paved smooth switchbacks made the tough climbs well worth it.

The service provided by an expert guide was essential to make this bike adventure a success. We take the roads less traveled, stay in unique accommodations, embrace culture and party like kings and queens. My biggest lesson was traveling by bike, which allowed me to really appreciate the here and now. The squawking parrots, the scurrying foxes, and the music that seeped from the mud-like walls of the roadside houses were my “kodak moments.” Most importantly, the sense of accomplishment for the entire group as we posed for photos at the pass would not have been as impressive through the glass of a car.

ConnecTour organizes tours in Argentina for up to 20 people at least once a year. Other destinations are listed on the website. connectour.ca