“Halloumi” for Greek Cypriots, “hellim” for Turkish speakers: this cheese is a symbol of division, but perhaps also of hope in one of the longest geopolitical conflicts in Europe.
In this tavern in Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, halloumi, a soft, elastic and salty cheese, is always on the menu. “Halloumi is a very special product for us. Unlike other cheeses, we can grill it, boil it or fry it, and it doesn’t melt. And we can also eat it raw and fresh with fruit or as an aperitif. For us, halloumi is synonymous with tradition, a centuries-old tradition.“, explains the owner Marinos Kapsis.
“a centuries-old tradition”
And Halloumi lovers can rejoice. The European Union has awarded it its highest quality label: the PDO, the “Protected Designation of Origin”. From October 2021, when this status will be applied, only cheese made on the island can be marketed abroad under this name.
Main exporter of the Republic of Cyprus in the south, this sector of activity already provides some 20,000 jobs. The market outlook now looks even more promising.
This factory produces 10,000 tons of halloumi every year, it is one of the largest in Cyprus. “The label ensures absolute protection in the geographical area for which the PDO applies. In our case, it is the European Union. In itself, this gives us the means to further increase the exports of halloumi to the Member States of the European Union, but also to develop further in the world.“, explains the director of Charalambides Christis, Marios Konstantinou
Concerns around the double PDO label
And yet the label also leaves a bitter taste. Divided since the Turkish occupation in 1974, the island has indeed received a double PDO. It includes both halloumi and hellim, the name by which the cheese is known in the self-proclaimed Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, a territory that is not recognized by the international community.
The European Union has thus endeavored to bring the two communities closer together. But this cheese diplomacy is not to everyone’s taste. Some Greek Cypriot producers fear unfair competition from the Turkish Cypriot side, where raw materials and labor are cheaper.
Nevertheless, the Republic of Cyprus sticks to this double label. “The market has great potential, and we believe it will be able to absorb the halloumi made by both Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots. It is clear that there is going to be a transition period and we will see how things go. Our ministry will monitor this transition and if our producers need support, we will of course intervene.“Sokratis Sokratous of the Greek Cypriot agriculture ministry said.
More jobs and income for the north of the island?
With or without a label, Turkish Cypriot producers still cannot export directly to European Union markets. Complex negotiations are underway. Here the producers of Hellim accuse the Republic of Cyprus of letting the situation get bogged down.
This factory manufactures about twenty dairy products of milk, cream, butter, ice cream, and about 6.5 tons of hellim per day, mainly exported to Turkey and the Gulf countries.
“The halloumi does not belong to the north or south, east or west of Cyprus. Halloumi is a Cypriot product. It doesn’t matter where it is produced. The halloumi is the halloumi. Here (Turkish side), we are nearly 50 to 60,000 people working in this sector of activity. When we start exporting to the European Union, the impact will be twofold. At the same time there will be more jobs and the incomes will perhaps double or triple, because the European market is a market where the prices are high “ explains Ali Bayraktar, export manager of dairy company Gülgün.
Discussions still ongoing with the EU
The Turkish Cypriot Chamber of Commerce is leading the current discussions with the Greek Cypriot authorities and the European Union. It represents 4,500 companies, a quarter of which are in the agriculture and livestock sector.
Its president says he expects understanding from potential business partners. “In the Chamber of Commerce, we believe that in order to complete this whole process successfully, we need the full cooperation of the European Union to put in place the right oversight mechanisms. We continue to demand this full cooperation to resolve the problems of hellim producers and to help them comply with EU regulations and animal health, safety and health standards. “, declare Turgay Deniz.
Skeptical cow farmers
Beyond geopolitical issues, the label has also aroused skepticism from cow breeders. Most of the halloumi on the market is currently made with 80% cow’s milk.
But by 2024, the label will oblige producers to make cheese according to the old tradition, using 51% sheep and goat milk.
Farms like this, with a daily production of 4000 liters of cow’s milk, find themselves in a critical situation, and require a little flexibility.
“Halloumi PDO does not meet market demands at the moment. Customers buy sliced halloumi, chili coated halloumi, halloumi for burgers. The PDO cannot be applied to all of these products. The government and the European Union must give us the tools to modify halloumi PDO to adapt to market demand.“, says Andreas P Kailas, breeder in the south of the island.
“Building bridges between the two communities”
Unlike farmers or producers, retailers see the new label as a win-win situation, both their business and their customers, who will be sure to buy a high-quality product.
Although specializing in dried fruits, this Nicosian delicatessen did not hesitate to include different varieties of halloumi in its offer. “The halloumi is like an ambassador from Cyprus. The tourists take a piece of it with them and they keep the taste of our island forever. Halloumi is one of the strongest souvenirs tourists take home“, says owner Philippos Philippou.
“Of course, the halloumi of northern and southern Cyprus are different. But they also share some commonalities. And both communities can certainly benefit from it in the same way. If this can help build bridges between the two communities, that’s good news, ”concludes tavern owner Marinos Kapsis.
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