Why are the squid sandwich and the city of Madrid twinned? There are theories for all tastes, from those who explain that it was born as a meat-free alternative during the Lenten season to those who believe that were the Galician and Asturian women who worked in the houses of the capital, familiar with sea products, which popularized their consumption.
We are clear that in Madrid frying has never caused rejection. In the verbenas of the capital, ins and outs and chicken have always been fried with joy -either you love them or you hate them- and it is possible that, already in oil, someone also decided to “scorch” a grateful cephalopod, with little loss and a good relationship with the batter. And in the midst of a party, the easiest way to fill up your stomach and continue with the revelry is to have anything in sandwich format.
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The fact is that there is no doubt: since the middle of the 20th century, the Plaza Mayor and other central areas have been full of bars that have it as their signature dish. The price has played in its favor, of course. The squid sandwich has always been a cheap option to fill the stomach and historically students and workers have been among those who have used it the most.
As has happened to other humble dishes in recent years, the squid sandwich is increasingly held in higher esteem and, along with the classic version, others have emerged, more colorful and storied. Here are seven squid sandwiches with which we would pay homage not only in San Isidro, but on any day of the year.
When you sink your teeth into a squid sandwich, few questions are usually asked about the exact creature you are eating. The only thing that really matters is that it’s good. In Bareto (Alcalá, 55) they give the recipe a little spin using young squid: that is, baby squid. The result is a sandwich in which the bite, once it goes through the batter, is more tender and sweet. The crusty bread also accompanies. The price is 5 euros.
Chef Hugo Ruiz brings new airs from the Strait in the version of the squid sandwich that can be enjoyed in Bugao (María de Molina, 4). He is not the first to bet all black on bread, dyed with squid ink, but we must recognize a special concern with mayonnaise. She makes two one of black garlic and another of pear, which are taken from the movies with the sweet nuances of squid meat. An extra touch of icing sugar leads us to wonder, could a squid sandwich become a dessert? The price is €7.80.
The upper level of Bar Manero’s exquisite sandwiches continues at Mar Mía (Plaza de Isabel II, 7) where Carlos Bosch has taken iconic recipes to the delight of the respectable. There is the squid muffin, a version of our favorite sandwich in which all the ingredients have been taken care of to the extreme. The muffin comes from Antequera and the lime mayonnaise that accompanies it is vice. Its price is 10.90 euros.
Few places are more traditional than the Café Comercial (Glorieta de Bilbao, 7), with a juicy bar where you can have everything from Russian salad to their bravas potatoes with strawberry tree alioli, even going through its delicious tigers. Their calamari sandwich is absolutely classic but also totally irresistible. It is served accompanied by fried potatoes ‘chips’ and has a price of 7 euros. A demonstration of what can be achieved when the art of frying is mastered…
In the Plaza Mayor and surroundings there are many places that offer squid sandwiches -from Bar Postas to La Campana- but we are particularly seduced by Los Galayos (Botoneras, 5), Illustrated food house and more than centenary. It shows that it is made with love, taking care of the batter so that it is especially crispy. The bread also rises above the average for the area: a good ciabatta is in charge of wrapping the golden rings. The price is €3.90.
In the ‘sanguchería’ of chef Mario Céspedes (General Oraá, 45) the squid sandwich travels to Peru to return in a version that is pure ‘umami’. The rocoto and citrus sauce makes the difference to transform the traditional sandwich into a ‘sandwich’ as contemporary as it is irresistible. Special mention deserves the very curradísima ‘tempura’ in which the squid is coated and which is crunchy without being heavy. ‘Puritita’ alchemy. The price is €8.8.
Santerra Neotavern
From Miguel Carretero, creator of the best sandwich in Spain – tuna belly softened with ribeye fat: tremendous – comes one of the best versions of the squid sandwich that can be found in Madrid. The ‘Rejos Chili Peppers’ from La Neotaberna de Santerra (Ponzano, 62) plays with the squid tentacles inside a ‘brioche’ with slightly spicy chipotle sauce, fresh herbs and lime. The contrast of textures between the crunchy rejo and the soft bread reaches our hearts (via the stomach, of course). The price is €7.50.