The pioneer in the world of beauty and cosmetics Helena Rubinstein (Krakow, 1872 – New York, 1965) answered in one of his interviews that “there are no ugly women, only lazy women!”, since, in cosmetics, the tools to enhance beauty and resist the passage of time there have always been many. Nevertheless, the means to blur the indicators of age have certain limits and, in addition to knowing what they are, it is important to know how to apply them with certain criteria.
That’s exactly what he knows a lot about. Corinne Perezone of the great ladies of makeup in Spain, founder of the prestigious school Stick Art Studio (Barcelona), trained in Paris and with more than 20 years of experience in visagism. The teacher, who has just participated in the Cosmobeauty Barcelona 2022 salon, where all the latest in hairdressing, makeup, nail art and barbering have been presented, offers this newspaper the advice to achieve excellent results. The key is to bet on naturalness! and pay special attention to three areas: cheekbones, jaw and upper eyelid.
Of the two parts of which the makeup consiststhe ‘invisible’, which refers to the preparation of the ‘canvas’ (that is, the skin, which consists of the hydration and the color of the background); and the ‘decorative’which includes everything ornamental (‘eyeliners’, glosses, colored shadows…), From the age of 50, special attention must be paid to the first, because with age “luminosity is lost, the blood that flows under the skin is not so transparent, sponginess is lost in the cheeks and in the mouth,” says Corinne. Therefore, you have to choose good formulas for each of these parts.
About ampoules ‘lifting’ effect, tensors, you have to know that they have a quite sticky texture. That is why it must wait half an hour to apply the base after the tensorand choose a oily makeup foundation (which are the majority) and discard the aqueous ones, because they repel each other with the blister.
“There’s been a lot of talk lately. glossy effect on the skin (recreates a face with relief, fresh and shiny finish, not greasy). But for skin of a certain age it is not recommendedbecause it can enhance flaccid areas. I also do not suggest matte finishes very dull, because they are not natural. And the more natural, the more it gives the feeling of healthy, breathing skin“, says the expert.
Corinne Perez assures that “the more product you put -read correctors-, the more age will be noticed”. Therefore, it is recommended to know how to find that dark circles cover that corrects the imperfection but at the same time is of fine and stable texture. The flagship product for her is the fixativeas long as do not carry alcohol. It is about those mists that fix the makeup once it is finished. “They are studied to leave a natural and juicy look of skin since they nuance the textures of the makeup”.
“Powders, yes, alwaysbut there are powders and powders”, advances the make-up artist, who recommends “the latest generation powders, with very fine particles, almost imperceptible and ultralight“. “When television went from analog to high definition, the absorbent powder particles were too coarse, and they removed them and left the finer – and more expensive – part of the dust. The particles that remain respect the naturalness and give the face a little shine,” says the make-up artist, who recommends the Make Up Forever brand.
‘BBCreams’, light or covering foundations?
From an age ‘BBCreams’ are very comfortable, but perhaps they are not covering enough for pigmentation problems. “If you have wrinkles, you should opt for a more moisturizing base, and for those with spots, ‘BBCream’ will be totally insufficient. You will need a foundation that covers,” says Pérez.
How to apply the blush?
Corinne is in favor of using blushbut better if in cream, “to give juiciness”. According to the makeup expert, “it will be more natural.” On the contrary, when there are wrinkles, the powder blush dries out the wrinkle and it is more difficult to blur it. In cream it integrates more with the color of the skin.
Trick to enhance the eyes
To make your eyes shine “what works best is to draw the eyebrow properly”says Perez. The eyebrow will give tone to the look, strength, joy, energy… “With age, the eyebrow [los músculos por encima del arco superciliar] is falling, and the hair too. That’s why a lot of women get their eyebrow tattooed, and if not, they fill it in with pencil,” he explains.
There is a lot of variety of shadows for the eyelid. “You have matte, matte with some gloss to enhance the matte, satin, iridescent. Those that are totally matte I do not recommend them, nor those that have a lot of shine; best choose a satin matte“, assures the expert, who also offers this trick: “If when you touch them you notice rough is that they have a lot of pigment, and these, on top of a wrinkled eyelid, look fatal. You have to make sure that the texture is fine with a satin touch, like slightly damp skin.”
“With the menopause, almost 50% of women lose hairsuffer from alopecia. They also lose eyebrows, eyelashes… There are products to strengthen the eyelash and they work very well”, argues Corinne. She also advises use group tabs (strands), because “they apply very easily and are very flattering”. And of course the mascara, on the top line. “If there are not many hairs at the bottom, it is better not to use mascara, because it looks horrible,” according to the makeup artist.
“Like Newton’s theory, the mouth loses juiciness, volume and the corners fall. This is also what happens to the muscles of the cheeks, which lose strength and the skin becomes more flaccid. This causes the corners to retract to inside and go down. Profiler is essential hereto raise that commissure. Better a waterproof pencil‘. With it we can cover the entire lip, and then finish it off with a ‘gloss’. And it will give a natural effect”, concludes Corinne.
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